The Underhill Approach

A beautiful day indeed

It’s Friday June 18 and it’s a beautiful day, maybe a little late in the year for my first real hike but always better late than never. The goal for the day, Mount Mansfield, 4,393 feet, the highest peak in Vermont and a jewel in the crown of the New England “four thousand’ers.” In the past I’ve summited the peak from three of the four cardinal points. Today would see the fourth side tackled with my approach coming from Underhill State Park lying on the west flank of the mountain face. “Face” is the apt term since Mount Mansfield is said to resemble a lying down face in profile, however, I have always thought this a stretch. Nonetheless, the summit ridge is described using this image with the Chin being the high point, the Forehead at the South flank standing at 3,940’, the Nose at 4,062’, the Chin at 4,393’ and then the Adams Apple along the Northern decent at 4,060’.

From the Laura Cowles Trail looking North West

The drive to Underhill, as with most drives in Vermont, is quite picturesque. Passing through the “Notch” from Stowe to Smugglers Notch is always nice and on such a beautiful spring day there were plenty of people about, hiking to Sterling Pond, bouldering and just stretching their legs. The route shown on Google Maps goes through some very small back roads where you just hope no one is coming the other way. After about forty five minutes I pulled to the end of a dirt road and passed the sign for the State Park. My mutt dog, Spud, always seems to know when we have gotten where we are going and he immediately sat up in the back seat and began to whine, his expectant whine literally vibrating with anticipation for the hike ahead. To hike from this side of the mountain there is a three dollar trail and maintenance fee. Although this is the only summit hike that has a fee, due to being in a state park, I think it’s worth it especially if, like me, you have climbed the other trails already.

The Laura Cowles Trail, going up, looking down.

As always, before any hike I had looked over maps the night before to pick my route. My maps have helpful ratings and small reviews of several hikes and I often find them useful when assessing if a hike will be good for me and my four legged companion. I have no worries about Spud and a hike’s difficulty but he does get spooked sometimes, by other hikers or dogs and so hiking close to an exposed ledge or ridge is not something I like to do. Spud is amazingly able, however, always flying up the trail jumping up rock faces that are over my head, sometimes scrambling, almost climbing up the last few feet. I have had to help him down or up in some situations but when he is wearing his Ruff Wear Approach Pack II pack its haul loop makes that easy. On this day hike, though, he was going sans pack. He showed no signs of trouble, however, and as always I would find him waiting for me around a corner or on top of a ledge with his head cocked back looking for me and then hopping back up the trail.

Spud standing atop yet another rock ledge on the Laura Cowles Trail

After conferring with the park staff I decided to take the Laura Cowles Trail to the summit. It was rated difficult but it was in the woods, not exposed, and would get the heart pumping. The approach to the trail head was about 1.5 km on a fire road with a bit of a grade and easy footing. As with most of the trails on or surrounding the Long Trail the Laura Cowles was in great condition. The route was not exactly an easy hike but it was well marked, clear of debris and really a classic Vermont challenge.

From The Laura Cowles Trail looking South West

As with many trails on or surrounding the Long Trial there is a sign-in sheet at the trial head proper. Taking a few seconds to sign in and note your intentions for the day is always a good idea in case something goes wrong. The trail started out easy enough, a moderate grade lead to a series of bridges over some small creeks and streams. As it was a hot day, I, encouraged Spud to stop for a drink. I would point to the water with my hiking pole say “drink, drink” and let him leap into the stream take some big gulps, splash around a little and then charge back up the trail. It did not, however, take long for the trail to turn challenging. A good deal of the hike began to lead up through a series of small to medium size rock climbs. A few moves were all that was needed to top out but repeating the procedure a few dozen times takes it toll on the heart, lungs and legs. Thankfully, I had been staying busy over the snow-less winter and spring, running several times a week, so I was not totally unprepared for the effort. The view back down toward Lake Champlain and New York was spied through tree limbs but at a few points you did get some nice vantages. The Laura Cowles Trail is anywhere from 1.5 to 2.25 kilometres long depending on the map you reference. A good, doable effort maybe best suited for experienced hikers or people in fare shape. Nearing the peak, the trail disappeared and the going was on solid rock. White blazes mark the way but where they are faded Spuds nose always sniffs out the route and I follow.

Spud now on his leash staying off the sensitive high alpine tundra on top of Mount Mansfield

When we finally top out at the intersection of the ridge trail leading to the Chin, I pull out Spud’s leash and hook him up. The summit of Mansfield is home to sensitive alpine tundra vegetation and both people and dogs are strongly encouraged to stay to the path or on the rocks and avoid trampling the plants and mosses. It is only a short hike to the Chin and the true summit. The views in every direction are expansive and it is surprisingly un-crowded on top leaving time and space to enjoy the scenery. There are many trails down from this position including continuing along the summit down the Long Trial or taking the steep spur path called Profanity. I continued along the ridge wanting to explore it a little and approach a series of steep rock descents that lead off of the Chin. I had never tried them before with my dog and I wanted to see how he handled them for future hikes which might take me along the Long Trail over the mountain from South to North or visa versa. As I should have expected he first scampered down and then, when turning back, quickly up the small cliffs and we headed back toward the trail down.

Spud waiting to begin the descent on the Sun Sunset Ridge Trial.

Approaching the trail signs, and bolstered by Spud’s prowess on the Chin, I decided to see what the Sunset Ridge Trial was like, prepared to turn back if the route was too exposed. This trail is a bit longer being 2 to 3 kilometres, again depending on the map, but well worth it as it is open, unobstructed by trees for much of the way, and a real spectacular route. It is not in any way hairy’ as I had feared’ with no steep drops or ledges to worry about. As with the route up, you do have to negotiate some rock faces which when descending can be slick and tricky. As always, good hiking shoes with sticky rubber soles are a real good idea on this hike but even with them I am yet to find a sole compound that can handle real slippery or wet rock. Inevitably, I did take one little slip but was none the worse for wear. On the way down I tried to take the short detour to Cantilever Rock but ended up losing the trail and, since it was getting late, I turned back toward the main trail leaving that particular sightseeing point to another time. As you near the trail terminus you descend back into the tree line and another series of streams and bridges. I encouraged Spud to drink again, hoping that he would clean off his now mud-encrusted belly but he only snuck some quick gulps and trotted back down the trail. It was not long until the Sunset Ridge Trail merged back into the Laura Cowles and the trail head was just around the corner. When reaching it I quickly ticked off the “out” box next to my sign-in, indicating I had left the trail. It was now just an easy walk back down the fire road to my car. I had cause here to try out the hiking pole carrying system on my Osprey Manta pack and it works, if not amazingly.

A view down from the summit of Mansfield

Reaching the car, I was quite pleased with the day’s effort. Spud, like always, seemed to have appreciated the chance to run and play in the woods and the route had offered a nice challenge and beautiful views. All and all, it was exactly what one is looking for in the first hike of the year: a tough and beautiful endeavour that gets you pumped for the year ahead. Back in the car driving toward Stowe, Spud’s characteristic enthusiasm was seemingly well sated as he had sunk, asleep, into the back seat maybe dreaming, like me, of another sunny day and another mountain peak to summit.